Hyperpigmentation, those frustrating dark spots and uneven patches on your skin, can be stubborn. Whether they’re caused by sun exposure, hormonal changes, or post-acne marks, fading them often feels like a losing battle. But if your hyperpigmentation isn’t improving, the issue may not be your skin; it might be your routine.
Let’s break down what’s going wrong and what you can actually do to see visible, lasting results.
First, What Causes Hyperpigmentation?
Hyperpigmentation occurs when excess melanin, the pigment responsible for skin color, is produced in certain areas. It can manifest as:
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Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH): Marks left behind after acne, cuts, or irritation.
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Melasma: Larger patches are often linked to hormonal changes.
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Sun Spots / Age Spots: Triggered by UV exposure over time.
Some of the most common causes include:
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Unprotected Sun Exposure: UV rays accelerate melanin production.
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Hormonal Fluctuations: Pregnancy, birth control pills, or thyroid conditions can trigger melasma.
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Skin Injuries & Inflammation: Including acne, burns, and eczema.
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Certain Medications: Like antibiotics, chemotherapy drugs, or even antimalarials.
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Underlying Health Conditions: Such as vitamin B12 deficiency or Addison’s disease.
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Genetics: Some skin types are simply more prone to pigmentation.
Now, if you’re already using serums, exfoliants, and SPF but your skin still isn’t responding, it’s time to troubleshoot.
Why Isn’t Your Hyperpigmentation Fading?
1. You're Skipping or Inconsistently Using Sunscreen
This is the biggest culprit.
Even 10 minutes of unprotected sun exposure can deepen pigmentation and undo weeks of progress. If you’re applying brightening serums like vitamin C or niacinamide and not sealing them with a broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher, you’re wasting your effort.
What to do:
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Apply sunscreen every morning, even if you’re indoors.
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Reapply every 2–3 hours if exposed to sunlight.
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Look for sunscreens with added antioxidants (like the ones recommended by Dr. Su’s experts) to fight oxidative stress.
2. You’re Being Impatient or Inconsistent
Skin turnover is slow. Hyperpigmentation often takes 6–12 weeks of consistent skincare to show visible change. Switching products too quickly or using them “as and when you remember” leads to stalled progress.
What to do:
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Pick a targeted serum (vitamin C, azelaic acid, or niacinamide).
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Use it consistently once or twice daily.
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Don’t hop from product to product every few days.
3. You're Over-Exfoliating
Yes, exfoliation removes dead skin and can help lighten spots—but doing it too frequently inflames the skin and makes pigmentation worse.
What to do:
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Use gentle exfoliants (like glycolic or lactic acid) 1–2 times a week.
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Avoid physical scrubs and harsh peeling solutions unless advised by a dermatologist.
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Support exfoliation with barrier-repairing ingredients like ceramides and panthenol.
4. You’re Not Addressing the Root Cause
If acne or hormonal imbalance is still triggering new spots, no topical will help long-term. Hyperpigmentation is often a symptom of something deeper.
What to do:
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If you struggle with recurring breakouts, focus on acne control first.
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If melasma or sudden pigmentation appears, consult a dermatologist for a hormonal assessment.
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Lifestyle matters too manage stress, balance sleep, and avoid excessive sugar or dairy if they seem to trigger flare-ups.
5. You're Using Overhyped Ingredients
Trendy skincare is fun, but not always effective. Some “natural” or “miracle” actives lack clinical support for treating pigmentation.
What to do:
Stick to proven, research-backed ingredients like:
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Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) – brightens skin, reduces melanin production.
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Niacinamide – regulates melanin transfer and strengthens the barrier.
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Azelaic Acid – anti-inflammatory and pigment-reducing.
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Retinoids – increase cell turnover and fade dark spots over time.
- Kojic Acid / Arbutin / Tranexamic Acid – excellent for melasma and stubborn spots.
6. You’re Relying Only on Topicals
While topical treatments are essential, they work best when supported internally. Oxidative stress, inflammation, and hormonal fluctuations also need internal support.
What to do:
Consider oral antioxidants like:
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Glutathione – helps lighten pigmentation by reducing melanin.
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Alpha Lipoic Acid (ALA) – reduces oxidative stress and melanin synthesis.
- Vitamin C + E – boosts collagen and protects from UV damage.
You can explore dermatologist-formulated supplements from Dr. Su that are designed to support skin clarity and reduce pigmentation from within.
What Actually Works for Hyperpigmentation?
Here’s a realistic, dermat-approved roadmap:
AM Routine
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Gentle Cleanser
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Vitamin C Serum
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Hydrating Moisturiser with Niacinamide
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Broad-Spectrum Sunscreen SPF 30+
PM Routine
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Double Cleanse (especially if wearing makeup/SPF)
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Treatment Serum (Azelaic acid or Retinoid, alternating)
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Barrier-Repair Moisturiser
Weekly Add-ons
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Gentle exfoliant (like 5% glycolic or lactic acid)
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A hydrating sheet mask or overnight mask to soothe and repair
Supplements
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Glutathione or ALA
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Zinc, Vitamin C, and B-complex (especially B12)
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Omega-3s to fight inflammation
Professional Treatments (if needed)
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Chemical peels – Glycolic or salicylic acid peels to lift pigmentation.
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Laser therapy – For deeper melasma or dermal pigmentation.
- Microneedling with actives – Encourages new skin cell growth and collagen production.
Always consult a dermatologist before going for these, especially if you have sensitive skin or active acne.
Final Thoughts
If your hyperpigmentation isn't fading, it's usually not because you haven't tried anything, but because you haven’t tried the right combination for long enough.
Consistency, sun protection, evidence-based ingredients, and internal health all play a role. Stop chasing quick fixes and start building a routine that respects how skin really works.
Explore targeted solutions and skin-brightening support at Dr. Su, your trusted partner in skin clarity.