Choosing the right cleanser can be overwhelming with so many options available. Many of you have asked, “How do I know which cleanser is best for my skin type?” Let’s break it down with a practical approach so you can make an informed decision.
What do we mean by skin types and how can you identify yours?
Skin types are broadly categorized as dry, oily, sensitive, and combination/normal skin. Here’s how to figure out yours:
Dry Skin:
- Your skin feels tight, stretchy, or rough.
- It might develop flakiness, and fine lines or wrinkles appear more prominent.
- Your skin doesn’t produce enough natural oils.
Oily Skin:
- Your skin looks shiny and feels greasy to touch.
- You might notice enlarged pores and frequent breakouts due to excess oil production.
Combination/Normal Skin:
- A mix of dry and oily areas. For instance, your T-zone (forehead, nose, chin) might be oily, while other parts of your face feel dry.
- For all practical reasons I use the term combination and normal skin interchangeably as they are one and the same. However I like dividing it into further 2 subtypes:
Normal towards dry: More dry areas than oily ones.
Normal towards oily: More oily areas than dry ones.
Sensitive Skin:
- Prone to redness, irritation, or reactions from certain products.
Now that you know how to identify your skin type, the next most important thing you need to understand is why you need to add cleanser to your skincare routine. I often get asked what’s the difference between a face wash and a cleanser? And why can’t I just use regular soap?
Back in the day face wash was traditionally designed to be foaming and catered primarily to oily skin. Cleansers, on the other hand, were typically non-foaming and gentle, making them more suitable for drier skin types. With advancements in skincare, we now have a variety of cleansers, including foaming cleansers, as just one of many options.
Here’s a very simple explanation on why we have different types of cleansers:
Years back we started with spectacles for eyesight issues which progressed to contact lenses, and now have laser procedures to correct vision. Similarly, skincare and dermatology have evolved with ongoing research. Cleansing as a ritual dates back to the origins of human civilization. Initially, people cleansed with stones, followed by plant materials. By 2000 BC, soaps were introduced for cleaning, and over time, we developed a wide range of cleansers meant for different skin types.
Should you use a soap or a cleanser?
Your skin’s pH level is crucial in understanding why cleansers are better than soap. The pH scale ranges from 0-14, with 0-7 being acidic, 7 neutral, and 7-14 alkaline. The skin’s natural pH is slightly acidic, around 5.5, while soap has a pH of 7-9. Studies show that using soap on skin disrupts its pH balance for up to 90 minutes, causing dryness, damaging the skin barrier and making your skin prone to acne or eczema.
This is why cleansers are now formulated to be pH-friendly. While not everyone may experience immediate issues from using soap, cleansers are a better and safer option for maintaining healthy skin.
What kind of ingredients/actives should you look for in a cleanser?
When choosing a cleanser, it's essential to consider your skin type and any specific concerns. Here's a breakdown of ingredients to look for:
1. Ingredients suitable for dry skin type:
- Ceramides, glycerin, and sunflower oil: Help maintain the skin’s natural barrier and hydration.
- Hyaluronic acid: A powerful humectant that retains moisture in the skin.
- Niacinamide: Helps sooth and calm your skin.
2. For Oily Skin:
- Oil-free cleansers are ideal for controlling excess sebum production.
- Salicylic acid: Unclogs pores, removes dead skin cells and prevents breakouts.
- Niacinamide: Reduces sebum production and has anti-inflammatory properties.
- Clay-based cleansers like those with kaolin or bentonite absorb excess oil.
3. For Sensitive Skin:
- Look for calming and soothing ingredients like vitamin E, niacinamide, and panthenol. These ingredients are rich in antioxidants and help reduce redness or irritation.
4. Targeting Specific Concerns:
- Acne-prone skin: Choose cleansers with benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, or niacinamide. A combination of a couple of these actives together in a cleanser may also be found.
- Aging skin: Look for lactic acid, glycolic acid, or hyaluronic acid, which help with hydration and skin renewal.
- Hyperpigmentation: Ingredients like niacinamide, glycolic acid, and azelaic acid can help lighten dark spots and even skin tone.
How many times should you cleanse in a day and what’s the right way to cleanse?
You should cleanse twice a day—once in the morning and once in the evening. Here's the correct way to do it:
- Start with clean hands—wash them first.
- Splash your face with lukewarm water.
- Apply your cleanser and gently massage it into your skin for 30-60 seconds, including areas like the back of your ears.
- Rinse with lukewarm water.
- Pat your skin dry using a soft, clean cloth designated for your face. Avoid rubbing.
The most common mistakes people make while cleansing are using hot water and scrubbing their face too harshly. Hot water strips the skin of its natural oils, causing dryness and irritation, while excessive rubbing can damage the skin barrier. Another frequent mistake, especially among those with oily skin, is over-cleansing—washing the face 3-4 times a day. This habit removes the skin's natural protective oils, triggering a negative feedback loop that prompts the skin to produce even more oil.
And lastly, incorporating cleansing tools or loofahs in your routine is the worst and the most common mistake! Here’s why:
- Hygiene is a concern—cleaning them daily is often overlooked.
- They can create friction on your skin, leading to issues like frictional acne, sensitivity, and hyperpigmentation.
If you think cleansing your face multiple times in a day, rubbing it too hard, using hot water etc will help you clear out your oily, acne or pigmentation problems– here’s a last piece of advice... Cleansers are not miracle products for acne, pigmentation, or other concerns—they’re only on your skin for a few seconds. Their fundamental role is to cleanse your skin, removing dirt, oil, and impurities to prepare it for subsequent skincare steps like serums and moisturizers. So let cleansers do its thing– to cleanse your skin from everyday impurities.