Retinol

INCI: Retinol
Category: Retinoid / Vitamin A Derivative / Cell-Renewal Active
Used in: Serums, moisturisers, eye creams, night treatments
Typical Usage Level (Topical): 0.01–1%

What This Ingredient Does

Retinol is a vitamin A derivative that must be converted in the skin through two steps, first to retinaldehyde, then to retinoic acid, before it becomes biologically active. Retinoic acid binds to nuclear retinoid receptors and directly influences gene expression, accelerating cell turnover, stimulating fibroblasts to produce collagen, and reducing abnormal melanin clustering. This conversion process means retinol is slower-acting than prescription retinoic acid but also less irritating. Results build over 12–16 weeks of consistent use.

Supports results when paired with Niacinamide (barrier support during adjustment)

Key Benefits

• Accelerates skin cell turnover, improving texture and reducing surface dullness
• Stimulates collagen production, reducing the appearance of fine lines over time
• Fades hyperpigmentation and post-inflammatory marks with consistent use
• Reduces comedone formation in acne-prone skin
• Evidence base spans decades one of the most studied topical actives available
  
  

Who It's Best For

• Adults 25+ looking to address early photoageing, uneven texture, or pigmentation
• Acne-prone skin 
• Not suitable during pregnancy or breastfeeding
• Fitzpatrick types IV–VI should begin at 0.025–0.05% and increase slowly to avoid PIH

Clinical Note by Dr. Su

Retinol is effective, but the adjustment phase of dryness, flaking, and sensitivity in weeks 2 to 4 causes most people to quit too early. Start twice a week at a low concentration, always on dry skin, and always at night. For extremely sensitive skin, the “sandwich method” (moisturiser → retinol → moisturiser) can help reduce irritation while your skin adjusts. The discomfort is temporary; the results are not.

References

• Mukherjee S, et al. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging. Clinical Interventions in Aging. PMC2699641
• Zasada M & Budzisz E. (2019). Retinoids: active molecules influencing skin structure formation. Advances in Dermatology and Allergology. PMC6791161