INCI: Mandelic Acid
Category: Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) / Chemical Exfoliant
Used in: Serums, toners, peels, spot treatments
Typical Usage Level (Topical): 5–10% (leave-on); up to 50% (professional peels)
What This Ingredient Does
Mandelic acid is derived from bitter almonds and has the largest molecular size among commonly used AHAs. Its slow penetration rate means it exfoliates more gradually, reducing the risk of sudden irritation or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation a key concern in melanin-rich skin. Beyond surface exfoliation, mandelic acid has mild antibacterial properties that make it useful in acne-prone skin. It also inhibits tyrosinase activity slightly, contributing to a brightening effect over time.
Key Benefits
- Controlled exfoliation with low irritation risk
- Reduces active breakouts and helps fade acne-related marks
- Suitable for Fitzpatrick skin types IV–VI, where other AHAs may trigger PIH
- Helps even skin tone with consistent use
Who It's Best For
- Sensitive or reactive skin that cannot tolerate glycolic or salicylic acid
- Darker skin tones prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation
- Acne-prone skin needing gentle but effective chemical exfoliation
- Those looking for a lower-risk entry into AHA use
Clinical Note by Dr. Su
Mandelic acid is underused and underrated, especially for Indian skin. It gives you the benefits of an AHA without the rebound sensitivity. If you have Fitzpatrick type IV or above and want to start chemical exfoliation, this is often where I recommend beginning.
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