INCI: Lactic Acid
Category: Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) / Chemical Exfoliant
Used in: Toners, serums, lotions, body exfoliants, cleansers
Typical Usage Level (Topical): 5-10% (leave-on); up to 80% (professional use)
What This Ingredient Does
Lactic acid is an AHA naturally found in milk and fermented foods. Its larger molecular size compared to glycolic acid means it penetrates the skin more slowly, making it a gentler but effective exfoliant. It loosens dead cell bonds at the skin surface while simultaneously acting as a humectant, drawing water into the skin. This dual action makes it one of the few exfoliating acids that doesn't compromise hydration in the process.
Pairs well with Glycerin and Hyaluronic Acid for enhanced hydration. Can be layered cautiously with Niacinamide to support barrier recovery.
Key Benefits
- Exfoliates and hydrates in the same step
- Improves skin texture without excessive dryness or peeling
- Helps fade mild hyperpigmentation with regular use
- Supports the skin's natural moisturising factors (NMFs)
- Gentler option for those who react to glycolic acid
Who It's Best For
- Dry, dehydrated, or sensitive skin types
- Those new to chemical exfoliation
- Skin that reacts poorly to glycolic acid but still needs active exfoliation
- Can be used on the body for rough skin or keratosis pilaris
Clinical Note by Dr. Su
Lactic acid is my go-to recommendation for patients who want to exfoliate but find glycolic acid too harsh. It's particularly useful in the Indian climate where skin can be simultaneously oily in some areas and dehydrated in others. Use at night, and do not skip SPF.
References
-
Smith WP. (1996). Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acid. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. PMID: 8784282
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