Bakuchiol

INCI: Bakuchiol
Category: Plant-Derived Retinol Functional Alternative / Antioxidant
Used in: Serums, oils, night creams, pregnancy-safe formulations
Typical Usage Level (Topical): 0.5–2%

What This Ingredient Does

Bakuchiol is extracted from the seeds of Psoralea corylifolia, a plant used in Ayurvedic and traditional Chinese medicine. It is structurally unrelated to retinoids but has been shown to upregulate similar gene pathways, including those involved in collagen production and cell turnover through a different receptor mechanism. This functional overlap with retinol is what earns it the "retinol alternative" label. Unlike retinoids, bakuchiol is stable in light, non-irritating at typical use levels, and has not been flagged as unsafe during pregnancy, making it the most viable option for users who cannot use vitamin A derivatives.

Key Benefits

• Upregulates collagen production via retinol-like gene expression without using the retinoid pathway
• Reduces fine lines and improves skin texture in clinical studies
• Non-irritating and suitable for sensitive skin
• Photostable can be used in morning and evening formulations
• Considered safe for use during pregnancy (consult OB-GYN; not a substitute for medical advice)

Who It's Best For

• Pregnant or breastfeeding individuals who cannot use vitamin A derivatives
• Sensitive or reactive skin that does not tolerate retinoids in any form
• Those wanting to support collagen and cell renewal with a botanical option
• Can be used alongside retinoids for a complementary effect

Clinical Note by Dr. Su

Bakuchiol is the most evidence-backed retinol alternative available, but it is not a like-for-like replacement its mechanism is different, and results are generally milder. For pregnant patients or those with genuine retinoid sensitivity, it is a sound choice. For everyone else, it can complement a retinoid routine rather than replace it.

References

• Dhaliwal S, et al. (2019). Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. British Journal of Dermatology. PMID: 30272582
• Chaudhuri RK & Bojanowski K. (2014). Bakuchiol: a retinol-like functional compound. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. PMID: 24471735