Azelaic Acid

INCI: Azelaic Acid
Category: Anti-acne, anti-pigmentation active
Used in: Skincare
Typical Usage Level (Topical):
10% – 20% in leave-on formulations
(15–20% is prescription-level in many regions; cosmetic products commonly use up to 10%)

What This Ingredient Does

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid that has been extensively studied in dermatology. It works through multiple pathways, making it uniquely effective for conditions where acne, redness, and pigmentation overlap.

In acne-prone skin, azelaic acid helps normalise abnormal keratinisation inside pores, reducing comedone formation. It also has antibacterial activity against acne-causing bacteria without contributing to antibiotic resistance.

For pigmentation concerns, azelaic acid inhibits tyrosinase activity, helping reduce excess melanin production. Its anti-inflammatory properties further make it beneficial for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and rosacea-associated redness.

Unlike exfoliating acids such as AHAs or BHAs, azelaic acid works without significantly disrupting the skin barrier, which contributes to its good tolerability across many skin types.

Benefits

• Helps reduce acne and clogged pores

• Improves uneven skin tone and hyperpigmentation

• Calms redness and inflammation

• Supports clearer skin without harsh exfoliation

• Suitable for acne-prone and rosacea-prone skin

Who It’s Suitable For

• Acne-prone skin

• Post-acne pigmentation (PIH)

• Melasma-prone skin

• Rosacea-prone or redness-prone skin

• Sensitive skin under appropriate guidance

Note by Dr. Su

(M.D. Dermatologist)
Azelaic acid is a versatile dermatological ingredient with strong evidence for acne, pigmentation, and rosacea. When introduced gradually and used consistently, it offers effective results with good long-term safety.

References

• Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 2014 – Azelaic acid in acne and rosacea management

• British Journal of Dermatology, 2006 – Azelaic acid for melasma and hyperpigmentation

• American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 2015 – Review of azelaic acid’s mechanism and tolerability